Mera Peak Climbing

Mera Peak is located at the head of the quiet and remote Hinku valley, an area of the Mount Everest region rarely frequented by trekkers or visitors. There are many approaches to Mera; some are easy and some require the crossing of high and difficult passes.

South ridge is considered un-climbable, East and north faces almost so. Northeast ridge is a difficult mixed 1600 meters climb. West face is possible, so is north-west ridge, but access to Mera West glacier (Khare glacier) is difficult; either a 500 climb up an icefall or a 1,000 meter climb over west side ramparts to the glacial basin at 5,600 meters.

This extended and strenuous trek, circumnavigating the Manaslu range, is one that avid trekkers could only dream about till a few Years back. Officially opened to trekking in 1990 and just as suddenly forbidden again, it was finally "reopened" in 1992 along with Mustang. A Government quota, however, limits the number of visitors to the area.

Strenuous trekking is constantly rewarded with brilliant mountain vistas of the Ganesh and ManasluHimal ranges and insights into the cultures of a cross-section of ethnic Nepalese tribes and peoples, perhaps not available on any other trek.

Starting, in the lush green lower hills inhabited by Indo-Aryan Hindus, you will pass through middle hills which is inhabited by the Tibetan-Burmese, Magar, Rai,Limbu and Tamang peoples who follow both Hinduism and Buddhism and sometimes Shamanism, to emerge into the high, arid desert region that is actually a part of the Tibetan Plateau where people of Tibetan Stock dwell and where the predominant religion is Tibetan Buddhism.

This trip is long and strenuous and the crossing of the Larkya La requires excellent physical conditioning, acclimatization to the high altitude and of course good weather.

Day 1: Arrive at Kathmandu & Transfer to Hotel.

Day 2: Full day guided sightseeing around of the Kathmandu valley. Preparation for the trip

Join us on the welcome dinner at evening.

Day 3: Flight: Kathmandu (1,310m) - Lukla (2,840m)

Start the trek. Camp at Puyan (2,800m)

We will be taken to the airport for one of the great flights of the Himalaya. If the sky is clear during our flight, we will get our first views of Everest and the region in which we will be climbing. The Twin Otter aircraft will take us to the hillside village of Lukla, which is the start of our trek to Mera. Here we will meet our camp staff and porters and set off straight away for our first camp at Puyan (2,800m).

Day 4: Pangkongma (2,846m)

After crossing the PoyanKhola, we turn off the main trade route coming up from the south and join an older route, which climbs steeply to the ridge-line overlooking the KhareKhola. Descending the other side of the ridge, we then contour along the hillside before climbing steadily up to the attractive farming and trading village of Pangkongma (2,846m). Many expedition members have been made welcome by the villagers here, spending several pleasant hours warming themselves in front of an open fire in the enveloping and welcoming atmosphere of the local's traditional Sherpa homes.

Day 5: NashingDingma (2,600m)

With fine views westwards towards Takshindu monastery and Lamjura, we climb through thick rhododendron forest and bamboo leading to the Pangkongma La. From here, we have good views of the south face of Mera with its twin peaks and of its neighbourNaulekh. We then make a scenic descent with beautiful views looking south across the endless foothills rising each side of the Hinku valley. This steep descent leads down to the wire rope bridge that spans the HinkuKhola. A steep, strenuous climb on the opposite side leads to NashingDingma (2,600m). We stay here for the night at the excellent campsite established by the Makalu National Park.

Day 6: ChalemKharka (3,600m)

Gaining height gradually through pasture and lush greenery, the trail steepens as we climb up to the Surke La. It is possible to take a nice, welcome cup of tea in a lodge just over the pass. Walking on, eventually, we reach an attractive campsite at a col 1km beyond ChalemKharka (3,600m), set among fir trees and rhododendron bushes.

Day 7: ChunbuKharka (4,200m)

Climbing the side of a ridge, we emerge from the last traces of rhododendron and the terrain becomes more rugged. Passing through high grazing country and crossing a small pass, we are treated to some excellent views of Kangchenjunga and Jannu to the east. We continue climbing to PanchPokari and then on to camp at ChunbuKharka (4,200m).

Day 8: Rest day at ChunbuKharka

Today, we have a well-earned rest day. Whether you take it easy and relax, or scramble some of the nearby rocky outcrops, this is a rewarding day and a useful aid to acclimatisation.

Day 9: Trek to Hinku Valley. Continue to Thaksingdingma (3600m)

We ascend slowly passing through the jungle. We find virtually no human settlement on the trail. This will be one of our longest walking days, mostly downhill. We will traverse several flats and spurs until we gain our first view of Mera Peak. From here we will drop down into the isolated Hinku Valley. Aside from mountaineers, the Hinku Valley is sparsely populated and very pristine. We will ascend a steep section of trail until we enter the forest, where we will stop for lunch. Eventually we will drop down into the humid, bamboo forests, before turning north up along the west side of the Hinku River towards Mera Peak. We will slowly ascend to Thaksingdingma and reach for camping.

Day 10: Trek to Thangnak (4350m)

Today we will have amazing mountain views as we continue north up the Hinku Valley. The trail gently climbs along the west bank of the Hinku River. Spectacular mountains, such as KusumKangari to the west and Mera Peak to the east, will be in view throughout the morning. We will make our way up onto the meadows on the western side of the Hinku Valley as we climb above the tree line. Here we will stop for lunch. Throughout the afternoon, we will traverse meadows and hill slopes, dotted with grazing yaks, until we reach the settlement of Tangnak (4,350m, 14,268ft). If it’s been a snowy season, the sound of avalanches will soon be familiar. We are approaching the heart of the high Himalaya.

Day 11: Trek to Khare (5100m)

Today we will climb above 5,000 m (16,400ft) for the first time. Our hike up to Khare (5,100m, 16,728ft) is short, but we will take it slowly, with frequent stops to soak up the incredible surroundings. The trail heads eastward out of Tangnag, along the lateral moraine of the Dig Glacier. We will pause to climb up the moraine for a view of the pristine Sabai Tso glacial lake. A drop in lake level, caused by a recent rupture of the natural dam the held the lake, is clearly visible. We will arrive at Khare in the early afternoon and have lunch. From Khare, the beautiful north face of Mera Peak is in plain view and Mera glacier spills steeply down into the valley.

Day 12: Trek to Mera La (5400m)

Today we will travel a short distance, slowly ascending up onto Mera glacier. The climb is initially steep, but flattens out as we reach the crest of the glacier. We will traverse a long flat on top of the glacier as we make our way to the pass, called Mera La (5,400m, 17,710ft). From here, the views are stunning. Crevasse fields gently stretch out in front of the pass and we are literally enclosed by a ring of jagged peaks and blue-green glaciers. The remaining route up to the summit of Mera Peak is clearly visible. We will have lunch at Mera La and spend the afternoon relaxing and staying warm.

Day 13: Rest / Exploration Day for Acclimatization .

Rest day for acclimatization. You can explore around or climb up for a few hours and come back to the Base Camp for the night

Day 14: Continue to High Camp (5800m)

We have a short, steep climb up to High camp, but we will take it very slowly so that we allow for the altitude gain. At 5,800 m (19,025ft), high camp is nestled behind a large rock outcrop. We will arrive here by lunch and spend the afternoon relaxing and further acclimatizing. Bill O’Conner in the book ‘Trekking Peaks of Nepal” describes high camp as “one of the most glorious viewpoints in Nepal, with a panarama that takes in Kanchenjunga, Chamlang, Makalu and Baruntse sweeping round from the east, whilst due north Everest peers over…the massive unclimbed South Face of Lhotse and Nuptse. Sitting on that rock outcrop, listnening to the wind and looking out across untracked glaciers remains a highlight of my Meraexpedition.We make preparation for the next day to get to the summit.

Day 15: Summit the Mera Peak (6,654 m / 21,830 ft)

Today we go to the summit at 21,830 ft from where the views of Pumori (7,161 m) Lhotse (8,516 m), Makalu (8,463 m), Lobuche (6,145 m) Cho Oyu (8,201 m) are spectacular. We will depart high camp before dawn. The climb up to the higher northern summit is straight forward, but will take 6-7 hours. The reward is one of the world’s most spectacular mountain views, including Everest and Lhotse just to the north, Cho Oyu to the northwest, and Kanchenjunga and Makalu to the east. We will then make our way down to Mera La for lunch and to Khare to camp for the night.

- MarshyangdiHotel in Kathmandu (including breakfast and all taxes).

- Guided sightseeing in Kathmandu (including all entrance fees).

- Welcome Dinner with Live Nepali Program hosted by Makalu Adventures.

- Mera Peak Climbing Permit Fee

- National Park Permit Fees (including all other entrance fees)

- Mountain guide for climbing support (including his daily wages and insurance).

- Airfare: Kathmandu-Lukla-Kathmandu.

- Fully organized camping trek arrangement (best camping equipments, tents, mattresses &etc)

- Guide, cook, kitchen helper/porters with their daily wages, foods and other expenses.

- Everyday three times meals on trek, prepared by our very professional kitchen crew.

Excludes:

- All International Airfares

- Expenses of personal nature such as bar bill, laundry bill, telephone bill, tips and etc.

- Personal medical and travel insurance.

- Helicopter Rescue & Evacuation - If needed.